Horin-ji Temple (Awa)

Horin-ji is a Koyasan Shingon temple standing among the rice fields of Tonari, Awa City, in Tokushima Prefecture. Its mountain name is Shokaku-zan, and it is Temple 9 on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. The principal image is a reclining Shakyamuni (nirvana) statue said to have been carved by Kukai (Kobo Daishi) himself, and it is regarded as the only nirvana image among the 88 temples. Because it stands among paddies, locals affectionately call it "Tanaka no Horin-san."

Temple tradition says Kukai founded it in 815; the story goes that an encounter with a white snake led him to begin the temple. The original temple stood elsewhere, was burned in military fighting in 1582 and was rebuilt in the 1640s where it stands today. A fire in 1859 destroyed the main buildings except the bell tower, and the present gate, main hall and Daishi hall were rebuilt in the Meiji era.

The grounds hold a gate known as the Nio-mon, the main hall, the Daishi hall, the bell tower and a statue of Blue Fudo. The bell tower is the building that survived the 1859 fire. Many straw sandals offered by pilgrims hang at the main hall. The custom is tied to a story of a visitor who arrived on crutches and walked home without them, and at the temple office you can receive "legs-and-hips" sandals to pray for healthy legs. There is no temple lodging, so visits are day trips.

On the pilgrimage route, Temple 8 (Kumagai-ji) is about a 40-minute walk away and Temple 10 (Kirihata-ji) about an hour, and Awa City has four consecutive temples from No. 7 to No. 10. Free parking for about 50 cars makes it easy to visit by car. Please contact the temple beforehand to check hours for stamps and calligraphy.

Allow about 30 minutes. Other temples nearby include Jurakuji (about 4.5 km) and Dainichi-ji in Itano (about 10 km). It suits travelers who want the simple atmosphere of a pilgrimage temple in rural scenery.