Tori-tenjoji Temple (Mt. Maya Tenjo-ji)

This Shingon temple stands on the summit of Mt. Maya in the Rokko mountains. Tradition says that in 646 the Indian sage Hodo founded it by order of Emperor Kotoku. Its principal image is a hidden Eleven-Headed Kannon said to have been carved by Shakyamuni himself. The temple name, Tori-tenjoji, comes from Trayastrimsa Heaven, where Queen Maya, the Buddha's mother, is said to have been reborn, and the mountain's name Maya is also said to come from her.

According to tradition, when the monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi) traveled to Tang China, he brought back a statue of Queen Maya said to have been made by Emperor Wu of Liang, and enshrined it here. The temple was regarded as a guardian temple of Settsu Province, and at its height it was a great temple with many sub-temples and monks' quarters, said to have housed 3,000 monks. It is also said to be the first temple in Japan to offer prayers for safe childbirth and to give out the maternity belt, and many visitors still come to pray for safe delivery, fertility and child-raising.

In the early hours of January 30, 1976, arson destroyed the buildings of the old precincts. Only the Nio gate and some sub-temples and the kitchen-quarters survived, and the temple was rebuilt on Maya Bessan, about 1 km to the north. The main hall (Kondo) was rebuilt in 1985, and in 2002 the Maya Buddha-mother Hall, said to be the only hall in Japan dedicated to Queen Maya, was completed and her statue moved there. In 2020 the temple left the Koyasan Shingon sect and became the head temple of the new Mayasan Shingon sect.

The grounds include a dry landscape garden, the Maya Sky Garden, designed by the garden historian Nishi Katsura, and the Sky Grand Stage, a viewing terrace built in 2005. On clear days you can see Osaka Bay, the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge and Awaji Island, and dusk is said to be especially fine. The Tsuten-mon gate in front of the main hall faces due west, and around the spring and autumn equinoxes the setting sun is said to fall in the middle of the gate. The old precincts, with the surviving Nio gate, stone walls and steps, are maintained as the Mayasan Historic Park.

To get there, take a Kobe City Bus to Maya Cable-shita, then change to the Maya Cable Car and the ropeway (Maya View Line) up to Hoshi-no-Eki Station. From there it is about a 10-minute walk, and the lookout Kikuseidai (about 550 m) is also within walking distance. The place changes with the seasons: cherry blossoms and fresh green in spring, autumn leaves (early to mid November is said to be best), and snow in winter. The cable car and ropeway are said to close on Tuesdays, so plan your day accordingly.