Kennin-ji Temple

Kennin-ji is the head temple of the Kennin-ji branch of Rinzai Zen, set in Gion, just south of Hanamikoji in Kyoto. Its official website calls it Kyoto's oldest Zen temple, and it was once ranked third among the Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto. Though close to the lively streets of Gion, the spacious grounds feel calm once you pass through the gate.

The temple was founded in 1202 (Kennin 2) with the shogun Minamoto no Yoriie as patron and Eisai, who introduced Rinzai Zen to Japan, as founding abbot. Fires and wars destroyed it repeatedly and none of the original buildings survive. An arson fire in 1924 burned the main hall, and the 1934 Muroto Typhoon collapsed the kitchen building, yet the temple was rebuilt each time.

A highlight is the "Twin Dragons" painted on the ceiling of the Dharma Hall. The two dragons fill the whole ceiling and are striking to look up at. You can also compare very different gardens, including the dry landscape garden Daiouen in front of the main hall (hojo) and the garden of a circle, triangle and square. The hojo and the imperial messenger's gate are Important Cultural Properties, and the main gate is known as Boketsu-ro.

The temple is also famous for Tawaraya Sotatsu's National Treasure screens "Wind and Thunder Gods"; the original is deposited at the Kyoto National Museum and a replica is displayed at the temple. A zazen session is held on the second Sunday of each month, and the Yotsugashira tea ceremony takes place on April 20, the anniversary of Eisai's birth (please check the official website for current programs).

Allow about one hour to see the gardens and halls. It is about a 7-minute walk from Gion-Shijo Station on the Keihan Line. Yasaka Shrine, Kodai-ji Temple and Nishiki Market are all within walking distance, so it fits easily into a half-day walk through Gion and Higashiyama.